Uganda remains an "insider tip" for travelers—largely absent from the tourist trail and still shadowed by its history. Visitors, among them scientists and conservationists, once struggled to work in a country torn by civil war. Poaching had pushed many of Uganda's signature species to the brink, among them mountain gorillas, cave elephants, chimpanzees, and even tree-climbing lions. Today, however, the national parks have been brought back to life, and the country's wildlife is flourishing once more. This stands as a tribute to their survival.